Kalahari Augrabies Extreme Marathon 2005 ~ Results and Article

After consuming over four liters of liquids last night, 3 packets of tuna, two packets of noodles and two protein shakes (no wonder my pack weighed 14kg!) I felt like a king this morning!  I even managed to run for the first 14km - then the heat set in, and began its suffocating grip once again.   The terrain up until checkpoint one was tough but man, those last 25km sapped the energy right out of the legs, forcing one to walk after the second checkpoint (except for the amazing gazelles – Bruce Arnett and co., bounding into the horizon up ahead).  I met up with racers who the previous day had been way ahead, showing how much one needs to be acutely aware that this race is about body management, seven days of it.   The last 12 km’s of this leg were tough, Christi nearly calling it a day due and the dung beetles (Geoff and Dirk) taking a long rest at checkpoint 3.  The intense heat (reading 44 degrees C today) and the unforgiving terrain, thick sand sapping energy from our legs and rocky gorges making fun of all your hard training and this is only day 2.  My knees hurt from all the walking, lets hope they feel better tomorrow.   This race today again showed me a glimpse of why we do this, why we bear this proverbial wooden cross, to explore what life is really all about and what it means to a person.  This race is too vast to think about the next day, only focusing on the next checkpoint, and the next.    

I am amazed at the super human strength of Bruce Arnett who came in with a time of 3h47.   This beast of a trail runner appears to float across the terrain, much like the springbok on the horizon.    Another champion runner, coming in second and pipping the rest of the guys today was Stephani Jackenthal (USA) in a time of 4h14, superb effort indeed, what a lass.  Believe it or not they are still feeling fresh!  Third in was Dominique Charton (France) in a time of 4h24, with Aaron close behind.    One for the South Africans today! 

Bringing up the rear of the field was Franz in 8h00, Christie in 8h37 (well done) and Christian Kuttler in 8h46 with the dung beetle crew still an hour out at the time of writing this article (it must have been a good rest!). This is where all the action happens, these guys being out there for aver twice as long as the front runners, well done! 

And the prize winner for the first (and biggest blister I have ever seen) goes to Franz for a monster weighing in at the size of one BIG toe, a proud dad Franz did not let out even a whimper when the nurses gleefully lanced the sucker, what a whopper!   This is a special tradition here at Augrabies and this year a record is on the cards. 

I must now go and tend to my blisters (which pale in comparison) and find some shade where the temperature should be cooler than 35 C.  Rain clouds are appearing above and will hopefully bring some respite from this heat.  Tomorrow is a big day, 45km, and the next - I don’t even want to think about it right now.   

Herbie – Tough but enjoyable 

Lorraine – Tough, first got lost, then ankle twisted.  Tomorrow’s a new day. 

Fabio – Long, long day, feet really sore, must now build up mental strength for the next two days. 

Dirk E – Long slog, physically not so bad, but heat starting to build and first blister starting to show. 

Marc – It was a hard race today because weather hot and ground difficult (sand, stones, climb).  I walk from Check Point 3 to finish because I prefer walking quickly (8km/hour) rather than running slowly.  It’s what I prefer from my long experience (15yrs) in extreme marathons. 

Floris – It was fantastic, but last 9km extremely hot, so I struggled a little bit.  Glad to finish second day without any big hassles.

Niel – Only a quarter of the way done.  Started too fast but came in ok.  Have to pace myself because my feet are starting to break. 

Bruce – Lovely, harder Day 2, and I enjoyed pushing myself a little bit harder. 

Stefani – Roller coaster, challenging, beautiful scenery, but really tough. 

Dominique – The country, it is very beautiful 

Aaron – It didn’t go well because of my knee.  I could feel it in the beginning and started to walk from Check Point 2. 

Rene – Etape longue et chaude.  Vu une dizaine d’antilopes.  Beaux paysages.  Traversees de petits canyons pas facile.  La suite de la course promet. 

Sarel – All well.

Gerard – J’etais bien jusqu’au Check Point 2.  Apres je me suis perdu un petit peu sans doute par manqué de lucidite.  Je m’ai pas bu assez de nouveau et ai du gerer pour finir.  Ma recuperation est bonne.  Le moral est bon. 

Lynne – Waiting to see what Estienne has up his sleeve, first two days far too easy!

Dave – Really, really hot! 

Paul – Good, top of the world.  Ready for another day.  These South Africans are really tough.

There was an ominous feeling in the camp today, runners sensing the vast task ahead of them, the realization that 78km of serious “Estienne” terrain (thick sand, rocky gorges, 4x4 tracks and general foot destroying surfaces) lay waiting.  We had another night of rain and what a blessing, a cool and clean (we bathed in the massive Orange River) start for yet another epic leg of this incredible journey.  This place is beautiful, wild, rugged and surreal; it is a place of open spaces, mystical gorges and blue skies.  We have been treated to lightning shows, desert rain and the oasis of a river in the sun baked world. 

Today I was very nervous, unable to fathom the magnitude of the task ahead after a very tough Day 3, which took a lot of hard work to complete.  This was it, judgement day, the day of reckoning, would be tough enough to last the distance of the monster leg.  To put this into perspective, lets go for a run…lets run 25km, 35km the next day , 44km the next and then 78km the day after.  Now add a desert with thick sand, lots of baking rocky gorges, grasslands, scrub, throw in 45 degrees of heat and a 14kg pack on your back.  These are the first 4 days.  The sights and sounds are awesome and so is the journey through them.  I took this leg checkpoint by checkpoint and by checkpoint 5 my feet were feeling like someone had pinned thumbtacks under them, the last half of the race was very tough, bringing me close to the edge of throwing in the towel, asking why I am doing this mad race, what the point is, is it worth it.  Something inside me made me carry on, I wanted to know more, I needed to make the whole journey.  My mind is still recovering from the onslaught of the last four days, why am I here, the answer I know will be completed. 

A staggered start was the order of the day with the slowest runners from the previous 44km day (it was a monster) starting early to ease the logistics for the crew.  The now famous dung beetle crew took off at 07h00 followed by runners every hour on the hour up until 13h00 for the gazelles.  The race started off a stunning vineyard with the vines taller than citrus trees leading into a steep and long rocky section where the first few teams were nearly lynched by troops of baboons.  This then opened up again onto long gravel and sandy stretches which most early runners took advantage of in the cool of the morning.  The clouds were starting to evaporate by checkpoint 3 and this became a popular rest spot.  The race then found its way through a private game farm by checkpoint 4 and continued on through until checkpoint 9 where some runners were treated to sight of giraffe, eland, springbok and other game.  Sunset was magnificent with most runners being shown a view of the Riemvasmaak region in all its magnificence and an unforgettable sunset that can only be experienced in a race like this.  The sunset soon gave way to a full yellow moon as runners battled it out amongst themselves, the terrain and their personal selves; this was going to be a long night.  Most of the faster runners caught up with the early starters by checkpoint 5 and this became a good excuse to sit a bit longer and relax, bringing on the mandatory 5 minute stiff legs warm up walk after transition. 

Upfront a battle was being fought with Bruce fending off a valiant charge by Rene, Joel and Stefani where dropping your guard for even a moment could cost a position.  Stefani continued her fine form finishing just under an hour behind Bruce.  Three times ladies winner Lynne Simpson has been battling a sever chest cold since the start of the race and bravely tried to remain competitive but was abruptly felled to just trying to complete the race for an incredible 5th time.  Aaron has been battling a niggling knee injury which saw him limping the last 3 checkpoints into camp late in the night.  Another incredible story is that of Paul Rapaport who developed ITB after the intense Day 3 and started Day 4 with this injury.  Paul staggered into camp a 07h45 this morning, what an incredible show of courage.  This year’s crop is full of heroic stories.  The people here are amazing and so are their stories, this place shows one incredible things and reveals peoples’ true personalities, bringing out raw, uninterrupted courage and joy.  This race has been an epic thus far and with two days left after our much needed rest day we are starting to smell home and the incredible joy that comes with completing this EXTREME desert race.  I must now move out of the sun before I melt and go and enjoy a swim in this most magnificent Orange River.  Wish us luck for the last two legs.

We spent the most beautiful night next to the Orange river, I have never seen so many stars before, this place is wildly rugged, surreal and spiritual, this place reveals it’s soul to you when you cry with it, laugh with it and feel with it.  This morning I woke up feeling great, two more days to go.    What an awesome day, what an awesome run!  Today I ran all the way, 35km, and it felt good! This was a day I was looking forward to, very rough terrain, kloofs, gorges and a relatively light pack (I have been eating at it since day 1).  Today I would have an advantage as an adventure racer, and what a ball I had out there! 

We worked our way up a very rough track on and up towards a high neck, then down a most beautiful kloof, bouldering and sliding between rocks, nooks and crannies towards the first checkpoint to find Estienne grinning like a proud dad.   The next leg took us along thick river sand and down a short stretch of dirt road where at 15km we turned up into ‘the gorge’.   This proved to be a most surreal experience as we pushed on through the thick sand, bouldered over dried waterfalls, quickstepped some quicksand where many a runner almost lost their shoes, and looked for the hardest sand to run on.   We moved over pools of water and one could swear that you could smell the ocean as the water trickled over the rocks.  The temperature was rapidly rising as runners then made their way up and out of the gorge to checkpoint 2.   This welcome relief then moved on to the third leg, which brought runners through what looked like the valley of a thousand hills but Kalahari style.  This sun baked leg began to sap energy out of the legs as the heat once again made it’s presence known and reminded one just how aware of this you must e and always be prepared by hydrating early and well.   Checkpoint three arrived and I was relieved to see this shady culvert with water and some very supportive and cheerful medics and volunteers.  Without the incredible support of these volunteers this race would not be the same, thank you all for your cheery smiles, hands of applause as we stagger into the checkpoints and always there to give us a push when we need one.   We were fortunate to see some huge Kalahari Gemsbok right at the checkpoint.  These huge and mystical antelope thrive in this unforgiving terrain and climate.  The last slog to checkpoint 4 and the finish comprised mostly dirt road and was over within the hour and the welcome sight of the finish soon arrived. 

Today’s leg was won by a speedy Dominique … in a time of 3h34 with Sarel … cooking on the run today on a superb time of 3h54, well done.  Bruce and Joel came in joint third in a time of 4h07.  Stephani and Rene came in with a time of 4h08.      Well done to Paul Rappaport who with severe ITB came in with a time of 6h55, well done!   The rest of the running crew is still working their way through the course at the time of writing this report and we are looking forward to spending our last night under the Kalahari stars before we get back to the luxuries of showers, beds and things with wheels. 

I am looking down to our tents now with the ‘Throne’ our royal and rudimentary bush lavatory neatly positioned between some stunning trees, ahh, the little luxuries of the bush.  This place, this race, it is spiritual, powerful and humbling. Wish us luck for the final day!

Today I completed the Augrabies journey, this vast spiritual, physical and mental journey.  It is a mind, body and soul cleansing experience.   It puts things into perspective, highlights what really matters in life and shows you places deep inside that that can only be revealed when one goes through the emotions that this race brings out.  From the extreme highs to the extreme lows, from the joys to the pains to the incredible battles one has out there, with the runners, elements, terrain, and yourself.  I have found my answers and they are clear.  

A last night out under the Kalahari stars, eating our last Ziploc worth of supper and packing the early start we settled down for a quite evening, it was cold the ground hard, our thoughts focused on the next day and our home run back to the Augrabies Lodge and Camp Site, 31km’s away.   This last week has been a powerful one, getting to know the runners, crew and volunteers as family, Kalahari family.   We saw each others highs and lows and helped each other through.  So, it was a sad night in a way as we chatted by the last glowing embers of the campfire and listened to the sounds of the bush come alive.  Most of our campsites were located in total wilderness, either in a game reserve or the bundus, these makeshift shelters served as a cold beer on the desert horizon after a long day under the sun and on your feet.  Each night the campmaster made us a fire where we cooked our meals and then we retreated to the shelter of tents or under the temporary gazebo type shelter.  So this was wild, beyond imagination, we became one with nature and learnt to respect her in all her might, traversing her valleys and deserts by day and resting on her by night.    

Today’s race started early, staged, from around 05h00 up until 09h00 for the fastest overall runners.   We started off up and through some hilly terrain, easing our way down into a deep valley filled with the famous Orange river vines, the size of citrus trees and loaded with the hugest and juiciest grapes.  This pleasure was shortlived as we then found our way to checkpoint 1 to be greeted by George.  The next leg would certainly be one to remember, for me it was the toughest single leg of the race but also the most beautiful, adventurous and fun leg, as we made our way into a steep V-shaped valley that contained the Orange river on one side and steep sandy banks, rocky outcrops and dunes on the other, it was obvious which route Estienne had chosen for us.  After negotiating a fence and some trees I excitedly leaped forward to gather running momentum, only to be felled by a tripwire hiding in the sand, it was a seriously down to earth experience as I pondered on this indignant situation, sand grinding gently between my teeth.  This was the start of many a down to earth experience as sand traps, gully edges and other features brought runners down to their knees on this tough leg.  The sights and sounds were stunning with fresh Leopard spoor abundant and the glistening Orange river flowing adjacent to our attempts to traverse alongside.  After 5 or so km of this desert fun we made our way into a valley filled with thick, thick sand, this was where the legs got nailed. Now, one has two choices, one can slowly ad painfully drag your feet through this sand or one can go balls to the wall and try to get it over with quickly.  The latter is usually the best as one makes up huge time bonuses here and also lessens the time exposed to this painful sand experience.  After 2h13 minutes of this I made it to the next checkpoint, woohoo!  My legs were now very tired.   Only 15km to go now, this was it, the home run.   A couple of km’s on good dirt road and a few km’s on tar road back to the lodge, should be a breeze, right…ja.  This knee pounding, ankle jarring experience worked my legs muscles harder than any other day as I battled to keep the pace up.  Lorraine, the first runner to leave (and a sub 3h marathon runner btw) was into a steady pace up ahead as I caught sight of her.  She had terribly painful feet with much skin removed so has moved slowly the last few days.  A quick hello and I had made it to the ‘front of the field’, what a feeling, only to be pipped by Floris (a late and very fast starter)  3km from the finish.  That tar road went on forever, into the horizon, it was painful.   The sight of the Lodge drew near and runners emotionally galloped across the finish line to be greeted by a proud Nadia and Estienne and the entire race crew, it was a very special moment. 

Today’s fastest time was Floris Steytler with a red hot 3h11, 2nd in was Bruce Arnett in a time of 3h16 and third Joel Buchot in a time of 3h22.   Captain Courageuos as he has become known, Paul Rappaport made it across the finish line with a stomach churningly painful case of ITB, well done Paul.  The dungbeetle crew of Geoff-Hilton Barber and Dirk Staal had a blistering run and were promptly handed ice cold beers once over the finish line, a classic case of dungbeetles ‘schnoeffeling’ (getting special things arranged…).  Lynne Simpson had an impressive run and managed to fight off a severe chest cold to finish her 5th Augrabies event, well done Lynne, that is something that deserves serious respect. Franz Brunner was the last man in with a time of 8h27 and some very painful feet, well done Franz.  This 5 time Marathon Des Sables finisher rates this race as way tougher, respect!    

Overall honours went to Bruce Arnett, or ‘Forest Gump’ as he is now affectionately known in a overall time of 28h56.  Second in is Stefani Jackenthal in an overall time of 31h23.  Well done Stefani, respect. Third in was Joel Buchot in an overall time of 31h52.    Well done, you amazed us all with your superhuman strength and trail running prowess. 

Well done to all the runners for completing this amazing journey, its memories, experiences and lessons will remain with you for the rest of your life.   Thank you to the amazing crew, the volunteers, the camera crew, the nurses, the doctors, the physio’s, everyone, thank you for all your support and passion.  Thank you to Nadia and Estienne for such an amazing race, all your hard work and passion was well evident as all the runners acknowledged.   Thank you to Linda who supported me through this journey, my friends and family, to Petru from Energy Dynamics for finding me some of that super PVM porridge and getting it down to Cape Town and to John and Suunto for sourcing the last foot POD for my T6 in Cape Town before my journey up here, it was accurate to the T literally.  

In ending, this journey has been amazing, it has shown me many things and I have learnt so much and made so many good friends.  Again I say, this race is powerful, spiritual and humbling, come and give it a try.